Treats and dogs that pull on the leash: can they really be used in training?

The key idea

• Loose leash = we move forward + I win (treat / access to a scent / praise)
• A taut leash means we stop (progress is no longer “the reward”)

Why treats can work… even with a “pulling” dog

A dog often pulls because pulling = moving forward (reaching a scent, another dog, an interesting place). Training involves changing this equation by making a loose leash more efficient than pulling.

Reward, lure, or “corruption”? (the nuance that changes everything)

1) The lure (only at the beginning)

You guide the dog with a treat to show it where to stand (near you). This is useful to start with, but if you get stuck on this, you can make a "magnetic" dog by hand.

2) The reward (final objective)

The dog walks correctly → you give the cue (“yes!” or clicker) → the treat comes later . This is what makes the behavior strong and lasting.

The simple (and effective) method: 10 minutes/day

Step A — Choosing the right treats

• Very small (the size of a pea), to reward often without overfeeding.
• Soft and quick to swallow (no long chewing required while walking).
• Very motivating outdoors (high value), especially at the beginning.
• If you are watching calories: use part of the ration (kibble) as “currency” and keep the premium treats for difficult situations.

Step B — Start with the easy part

Start indoors / in the garden / in a quiet place. If you go straight to a very stimulating place, your dog is “already gone”: he is no longer available to learn.

Step C — Reward the loose leash

1. Walk 2–3 steps.
2. If the leash is slack: “yes!” → treat on your leg (not in front of your nose).
3. Starts again, very short, very clean.

Step D — When it starts firing: stop immediately

1. As soon as the leash becomes taut: you stop .
2. You wait for a lapse in attention (or a return of attention).
3. “Yes!” → reward → and only then do you leave.

The 7 mistakes that make people believe “treats don’t work”

1. Rewarding when it pulls (even once) → you pay for the traction.
2. Giving the treat in front of the muzzle → the dog pulls towards the hand.
3. Having sessions that are too long → prefers 3 x 5 minutes to 30 minutes of conflict.
4. Introducing too many distractions too early (market, dogs, crowds…).
5. Not enough motivating treats outside.
6. Lack of consistency: sometimes you stop, sometimes you “let it run”.
7. Dog too excited/stressed → reduce the difficulty and work on attention first.

What if my dog ​​pulls a lot?

1) Physical assistance (painless)

A well-fitted Y-harness can improve comfort and safety. A front attachment point can help better manage the pull during training (it doesn't replace training, but it prevents the rider from "being forced").

2) The “life rewards” (ultra-powerful)

Example: “You walk 5 steps on a relaxed leash → I give you permission to go sniff.” For many dogs, sniffing is worth as much (or even more) than a treat.

3) Avoid punishment

Coercive methods can damage well-being and relationships. Focusing on clarity, consistency, and reinforcement often yields better long-term results.

How long does it take to get better?

• Week 1 : Moments of loose leash appear more frequently.
• 3 to 6 weeks : with consistency + 10 minutes/day, progress becomes clear.
• Next: you gradually space out the treats (1 out of 2 times, then random) while keeping "jackpots" for when it's exceptional.

FAQ

“My dog ​​doesn’t eat anything outside.”

He is overstimulated. Return to a calmer place, gradually increase the difficulty, and try more motivating treats (high value).

“I feel like I’m buying it.”

You don't buy: you teach . At first, you often pay to establish the behavior, then you gradually reduce it, like normal learning.

“Do I have to give a treat for every step?”

At the very beginning, during very short sequences, this can happen. Very quickly, you increase the number of steps between each reward.